This is the Mocha Sundae Blanket. I decided to publish my pattern slightly differently for this one – I have created a step-by-step photo tutorial on a slide show – a link to this can be found below. However for those who prefer a written pattern, this can also be found at the bottom of this page and can be copied and pasted into a Word document for personal use. All of of these are free.
This blanket is worked in vertical strips, where each one is worked whilst joining to the next using a slip stitch join-as-you-go method. This blanket is relatively easy to make; it has a 2 row repeat. The joining method can take a while to get used to, but once you do it becomes quite relaxing and mindless.
Step-by-step photo tutorial
My sample measures approximately 103cm x 123cm and has 8 blocks in each vertical strip and 7 blocks horizontally.
You make your blanket as big or as small as you like.
You will need:
My finished sample blanket weighed 720g. Allow approximately 850g – I started with 10x100g (I found that I had some left over). Allow approximately 13-15g for each colour block and approximately 30-50g of each of the 3 border colours.
I used Paintbox Simply DK yarn in the following colours – 155 vintage pink, 107 vanilla cream, 109 soft fudge, 116 melon sorbet (I think this colour may have been discontinued), 110 coffee bean, 108 light caramel, 102 champagne white. Paintbox Simply DK yarn can be purchased here (affiliate link).
Hook: size 4mm
UK terms are used throughout.
ss slip stitch
HBhtr Herringbone half treble crochet
dc double crochet
RS Right Side of the work facing you (front)
WS Wrong Side of the work facing you (back)
UK/US Stitch Conversion Chart & Stitch Description:
|UK term||UK abbreviation||US term||US Abbreviation||Description|
|Herringbone Half Treble Crochet||HBhtr||Herringbone Half Double Crochet||HBhdc||Yarn over hook. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over hook, pull through stitch and 1 loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over hook, pull through two remaining two loops|
|Double Crochet||dc||Single Crochet||sc||Insert hook into stitch, yarn over hook, pull though stitch (2 loops on hook), yarn over hook, pull through remaining two loops|
|Slip Stitch||ss||Slip Stitch||ss||Insert hook into stitch, yarn over hook, pull through stitch and through loop|
|Chain||ch||Chain||ch||Yarn over hook, pull through loop|
I square as per pattern: 22 stitches x 22 rows =. 15cm x 14.5/15cm
Gauge is not critical for this project, but may affect yarn quantities.
Notes on the pattern
This blanket is worked in vertical strips. You start with making the first strip and then you add subsequent strips whilst joining to the previous strip as you go along. Each vertical strip is worked in colour blocks, each made up of 22 rows. The blanket is worked in a two row repeat – one row Double Crochet (UK terms) and one row in Herringbone Half Treble Crochet (HBhtr).
I tried to get my edges as straight as I could for this blanket and I achieved this by using the following method. The turning chain counts as a stitch. Each turning chain consists of ONE chain, regardless of whether the row is a double crochet row or a herringbone half treble row You can keep this single chain loose if this helps to keep your edges straight. Work the first true stitch in each row into the second stitch of the row below. You will work the last stitch in each row into the turning the chain from the row below. Sometimes this is hard to find – so I used stitch markers until I got the hang of it (I have used stitch markers in the photo tutorial slide show).
Another tip – keep checking your number of stitches regularly, you should have 22 stitches for each row.
You can make your blanket as big or as small as you like. My blanket was 8 blocks vertically by 7 blocks horizontally.
Notes on joining (do a practice sample first)
Once you have made the first vertical strip, you will be then be adding subsequent vertical strips using a slip stitch join-as-you-go. I recommend that you try out this joining method in advance of starting the whole blanket. Do this by making two squares in the first vertical strip and then practice joining the next vertical strip using the modified slip stitch join-as-you-go method described.
1st Vertical Strip
Foundation Row – Chain 23;
Row 1 (RS)- Dc in 2nd ch from the hook. Work a dc in each chain along until you reach the end. Turn.
Row 2 (WS) – Chain1 (counts as a stitch). 1HBhtr in second stitch, and then 1HBhtr in each stitch along to the end. Make sure you work a HBhtr into the turning chain of the row below. Turn. (22 stitches)
Row 3 (RS) – Chain 1 (counts as a stitch). Dc in 2nd stitch and in each stitch along to the end. Make sure you work a dc into the turning chain of the row below. Turn. (22 stitches)
Rows 4 (WS) – Chain1 (counts as a stitch). 1HBhtr in second stitch, and then 1HBhtr in each stitch along to the end. Make sure you work a HBhtr into the turning chain of the row below. (22 stitches).
Subsequent Rows: Repeat rows 3 & 4 until you have completed 22 rows in colour A. Work 22 rows in each colour until you have the desired number of colour blocks (I worked 8 in my sample).
2nd Vertical Strip
The second strip is worked whilst joining to the 1st vertical strip.
Foundation Row – Attach new yarn to the end of the foundation row of the first square from the first vertical strip with a ss. Chain 23; Fig1
Row 1 (RS)– Dc in 2nd ch from the hook.. Work a dc in each chain along until you reach the last stitch. Ss into the last stitch of row 1 of the adjacent square (around the post of the stitch) (Fig 3) (placement indicated in Fig 2). Work two ss in the last stitch of row 2 of the adjacent square (around the post of the stitch) (work the first ss in the lower part of the stitch and the second ss in the upper part of the stitch – these places are shown by the needle in Fig 4). Turn (Fig 6).
Rows 4 (WS)- 1HBhtr in each stitch along to the end. Turn. (22 stitches)
Rows 5-21 – repeat as for row 3 & 4, ss into the corresponding row from vertical strip 1 at the end of each odd numbered row, work 2 ss into the row above to start an even numbered row as described above. (22 stitches)
Row 22 – repeat as for row 3 but when you come to the working the last HBhtr, stop before the final yarn over and introduce new yarn for the final yarn over. (22 stitches)
The border is worked in 3 colours using the same stitch as the main blanket for a total of 6 rounds – ie. a round of dc then a round of HBhtr in the first colour, and then the same in two further colours.
Border Row 1 (RS): Pull up a loop in the bottom left corner of the blanket in yarn A. Ch 2 (counts as a stitch), dc in each st along the bottom of the blanket. Work [dc, ch1, dc] in the corner space. Work up the right hand side of the blanket with 1dc at the end of a dc row and 2 dc in the end of a HBhtr row. Continue working dc around the blanket, working [dc, ch1, dc] in each corner until you reach the start of the round. Dc, ch1 in the corner space where you started, ss into the top of the starting ch2 to close the round. Turn the blanket over.
Border Row 2 (WS): Ss back into the ch1 space you just worked. Ch2 (counts as a stitch), work around the blanket with HBhtr, working [HBhtr, ch2, HBhtr] in each corner until you reach the corner where you started. HBhtr, ch2 and ss into the top of the ch2 starting chain. Fasten off yarn.
Border Row 3 (RS) and Row 4 (WS): repeat border rows 1 & 2 with yarn B
Border Row 5 (RS) and Row 6 (WS): repeat border rows 1 & 2 with yarn C.
Weave in all the ends.
Enjoy your new blanket!