Caramel and Vanilla Colour Block Throw

This page contains affiliate links.

Equipment

Yarn: Sirdar Country Classic Worsted weight yarn in Vanilla (1x 100g ball), Clotted Cream (1x 100g ball), Mineral (1 x 100g ball), Toffee (1 x 100g ball), Ginger (2 x 100g balls) and Port (3 x 100g balls). You can purchase this yarn here.

Hook: Size 4.5 (or hook to achieve gauge)

Needle to weave in ends

Scissors

Finished Size

Approximately 100cm x 83cm.

You can easily adapt this pattern to whatever size you desire by adding more or less granny squares (you will need to adjust the yarn quantities accordingly).

Gauge

4 rounds in pattern = 10cm x 10cm, adjust hook size as necessary. Gauge is not critical for project, but may affect yarn quantities.

Abbreviations/Crochet terminology

UK terms are used throughout.

Ss slip stitch

Tr treble crochet

Ch chain

* * Instructions between asterisks will be repeated as specified in the instructions

Notes on the Granny Square

The pattern is based on the traditional Granny Square. This Granny Square uses groups of treble crochet to form ‘treble clusters’. Each treble cluster is worked in the space formed by the gap between treble clusters from the round below (except in the corners, where the treble clusters are worked in the chain 1 space). It is a really simple technique and suitable for a beginner.

This pattern has one chain stitch in each corner (you might see other patterns have two or three chains in the corners). The pattern also suggests you turn the work over after each round. I find this helps to keep the square even and it also makes the work reversible.

Each Granny Square in this pattern has 4 rounds.

Instructions

You will need to make a total of 80 granny squares in six different colours. There are six different squares to make – 12 of each of Vanilla, Clotted Cream, Mineral and Toffee, and 16 of each of Port and Ginger. I arranged these in an 8 by 10 random colour formation. This pattern uses the join-as-you-go joining method so you will be joining each square whilst working the 4th round. Alternatively you can make all granny squares up separately and then sew the squares together.

Instructions for the first square

Round 1

Chain 4, ss into the first chain to form a ring (or make a magic circle).
Chain 3 (counts as 1tr), 2tr into the ring, ch1, 3tr, ch1, 3tr, ch1, 3tr, ch1.
ss into the top of the starting chain 3 to close the round.

Round 2

Turn work over, ss into the chain 1 corner space that has just been formed.
Ch3 (counts as 1tr), 2tr into same space.
*3tr in next chain 1 space, ch1, 3 tr into same space*
Repeat from *to* until you reach the space where you started the round, 3tr into space, ch1, ss into top of starting chain 3 to close the round.

Round 3

Turn work over, ss into the chain 1 corner space that has just been formed.
Ch3 (counts as 1tr), 2tr into same space.
*3tr in next space formed by the gap between the two treble clusters from the round below, in the chain 1 corner space work [3tr, ch1, 3 tr]*.
Repeat from *to* until you reach the starting space, work 3tr, ch1 and ss into the top of the starting chain 3 to close the round.

Round 4

Turn work over, ss into the chain 1 corner space that has just been formed.
Ch3 (counts as 1tr), 2tr into same space.
*3tr in each space formed by the gap between the treble clusters from the round below, in the chain 1 corner space work [3tr ch1, 3tr]*.
Repeat from *to* until you reach the starting space, work 3tr, ch1 and ss into the top of the starting chain 3 to close the round. Fasten off yarn. Weave in ends.

Instructions for subsequent squares.

Rounds 1-3

Work as above for the first square

Round 4 including the ‘join-as-you-go’ method

Turn work over, ss into the chain 1 corner space that has just been formed.
Ch3 (counts as 1tr), 2tr into same space.
*3tr in each space formed by the gaps between the treble clusters from the round below until you reach the first corner. Work [3tr, ch1, 3tr], in the chain 1 corner space of the round below, work along the second side of square with 3tr in the spaces, when you reach the second corner work 3tr (square A) and then ss into the corner of the adjacent square (square B in photo below).
Work 3tr in the corner space (square A in photo below) to complete the corner, and then *ss into adjacent square (B) in the space between treble clusters, then 3tr in square A*
Repeat from *to* until you reach the corner. Work 3tr in corner of square A, ss in corner of square B and 3tr in corner space of square A.
Continue working down the remaining side of square A until you reach the starting space, work 3tr, ch1 and ss into the top of the starting chain 3 to close the round. Fasten off yarn. Weave in ends.

Complete the whole of row 1 (8 squares in total). For the subsequent rows I slip stitched in the corner of the diagonal square to avoid a gap in at the intersection.

For subsequent rows you will need to join along 2 sides of the square you are working.

Border

For the border I used the Port colour yarn.

Border Row 1. Join Port colour yarn in any chain 1 corner space of a corner square. Ch3 (counts as 1 treble), 2tr in same space, continue working 3 trebles in each space between treble clusters. When you reach the join between two squares work 3tr in the slip stitch (see needle position in photo 3 below.

Continue working along each side of the throw, working 3tr, ch1, 3tr in the corners. When you reach the corner you started work a ss into the top of the starting chain 3, ch3 and turn.

Border rows 2 and 3

Continue to work two further row with treble clusters, working 3tr, ch1, 3tr in each corner space. Once this has been completed, slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 to close the round, ch3 and turn.

Border row 4

For this round instead of treble clusters, work [2tr ,ch1, 2tr] in each space between the treble clusters in the row below, working 3tr, ch1, 3tr]