Heart Block Blanket
Introduction
The Heart Block Blanket is a delightful blanket to make and is a perfect addition to any home.
The blanket is made up of 25 individual blocks, sewn together in a 5 by 5 formation. Each block is made using the wonderfully simple Granny Stripe and has a heart detail in the centre created by yarn colour changes.
The blanket is beautifully framed by a simple Granny Stripe border.
Purchase an Ad- free PDF Version of this Pattern
An ad-free PDF version (digital download) of this pattern is available to buy now from Ravelry. This PDF is 34 pages long and has step-by-step progress photos (on pages 1-29) like the free version on this page, it also includes just the written pattern (on pages 30-34) with no photos and only 2 diagrams for those who do not want lots of photos to print out.
Crochet Skills Used
A simple pattern which uses UK treble crochet, double crochet and chains.
You will need to be competent at mid-row yarn colour changes – there are a lot of them in this pattern. This is the most challenging part of this pattern.
Sewing is required to join the 25 individual blocks.
Knowledge of basic crochet stitches, techniques and terminology is assumed.
Abbreviations/Crochet terminology
UK terms are used throughout.
tr | Treble Crochet |
dc | Double Crochet |
ss | Slip stitch |
ch | Chain |
Beg-ch | Beginning chain |
st(s) | Stitch(es) |
sp(s) | Space(s) |
Treble Cluster | 3 treble crochet stitches worked in the same stitch or space |
[…] | Repeat pattern stated number of times |
(…) | Important notes |
*to* | Instructions between asterisks will be repeated as specified |
tr2tog | Treble crochet 2 stitches together |
Stitch Guide/Conversion Guide
UK term | US term | Description |
|---|---|---|
Treble Crochet (tr) | Double Crochet (dc) | Yarn over hook. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over hook, pull through stitch (3 loops on hook), yarn over hook, pull through two loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over pull through remaining two loops to leave 1 loop on the hook |
Double Crochet (dc) | Single Crochet (sc) | Insert hook into stitch, yarn over hook, pull through stitch (2 loops on hook), yarn over hook, pull through remaining two loops to leave 1 loop on the hook |
Slip Stitch (ss) | Slip Stitch (ss) | Insert hook into stitch, yarn over hook, pull through stitch and through loop |
Chain (ch) | Chain (ch) | Yarn over hook, pull through loop |
Treble Crochet 2 stitches together (tr2tog) | Double Crochet 2 stitches together (dc2tog) | Yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through first 2 loops on hook (2 loops left on hook), yarn over and insert hook in next stitch, yarn over, pull up loop (4 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through first 2 loops on hook (3 loops left on hook). Yarn over, pull through all remaining loops on hook, to leave 1 loop on the hook |
Pattern Notes
The Heart Block Blanket is made up of 25 blocks which are made separately and then sewn together.
Leave a long tail at the end of making each block if you would like to use this to sew the blocks together.
COLOUR CHANGES
Work mid-row colour changes using any method your prefer. This sample worked colour changes by introducing a new colour on the last yarn-over of the previous stitch, cutting the old yarn off and proceeding with the new colour. The ends are secured (knotted) and then woven in. If you opt for this method, you will have quite a few ends to weave in – it is advised that you do this as you go along.
WORKING THE FIRST ROW
The first row is double crochet worked in the ‘back bumps’ of the starting chain. The photo (below) shows a starting chain from the front with the ‘V’ shapes, if you turn the starting chain on its side you will see the ‘back bumps’. Working in the ‘back bumps’ gives a nicer finish, but it is not essential and you can opt to work into the chain stitches as you usually do instead.
Gauge
Gauge is not critical for this project, but it may affect yarn quantities.
Pattern for the gauge = Granny Stripe
5 x 3tr = 10cm/4in
10 rows = 10cm/4in
A completed block should measure approximately 24cm (9.5in) by 24cm (9.5in)
Finished Measurements
Approximately 130cm x 130cm (51in x 51in)
Materials
YARN
Double knit yarn in 15 colours. Total of 1500g/4425m required.
The sample uses Stylecraft Special DK 100% Acrylic 100g/295m in each of the following colours:
White (Wh), A Hint of Silver (Hi), Silver (Si), Heather (He), Wisteria (Wi), Lavender (La), Bluebell (Bb), Mallard Blue (Ma), Cornish Blue (Co), Nigella (Ni), Periwinkle (Pe), Blue Sky (Bl), Tea Green (Te), Lincoln (Li) and Spearmint (Sp).
HOOK
4mm crochet hook (or size required to achieve gauge), 4.5mm/5mm hook for border if required.
OTHER ITEMS
Scissors, needle to darn in ends
Block & Colour Chart
You will need to make a total of 25 blocks. Each block has a unique colour scheme.
Each block is worked in rows of the traditional Granny Stripe with a row of double crochet at the start and at the end. Each block has a total of 24 rows.
The heart detail is created by mid-row colour changes with contrasting yarn colours (labelled A-N).
One block is pictured below.
The individual blocks are numbered 1-25.
Pattern for the Heart Block
Foundation Chain: Using Main Colour (MC), chain 38.
Row 1: Row 1 is worked in the ‘back bumps’. Work 1dc in 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch. Turn. (37sts)
Row 2: Ch3 (counts as 1tr here and throughout), 1tr in the same st, [skip 2 sts, 3tr in the next st] 11 times, skip 2 sts, 2tr in the last st. Turn. (37sts)
Row 3: Ch3, work 3tr in the first sp between treble clusters, continue working 3tr in each sp between treble clusters until the end of the row. Work 1tr in the top of the beg-ch3. Turn. (38sts)
Row 4: Ch3, 1tr in the same st, 3tr in each sp between treble clusters to the end, 2tr in the top of the beg-ch3. Turn. (37sts)
Row 5: Repeat Row 3
Row 6: Ch3, 1tr in the same st, 3tr in each of the first 5 sps between treble clusters, change to yarn A, 3tr in the next sp, change to yarn MC, 3tr in each of the next 5 sps between treble clusters, 2tr in the top of the beg-ch3. Turn. (37sts)
Row 7: Ch3, 3tr in each of the first 5 sps between treble clusters, change to yarn B, work 3tr in each of the next 2 sps, change to yarn MC, 3tr in each of the next 5 sps between treble clusters, 1tr in the top of the beg-ch3. Turn. (38sts)
Row 8: Ch3, 1tr in the same st, 3tr in each of the first 4 sps between treble clusters, change to yarn C, 3tr in each of the next 3 sps, change to yarn MC, 3tr in each of the next 4 sps between treble clusters, 2tr in the top of the beg-ch3. Turn. (37sts)
Row 9: Ch3, work 3tr in each of the first 4 sps between treble clusters, change to yarn D, 3tr in each of the next 4 sps, change to yarn MC, work 3tr in each of the next 4 sps between treble clusters, 1tr in the top of the beg-ch3. Turn. (38sts)
Row 10: Ch3, 1tr in the same st, 3tr in each of the first 3 sps between treble clusters, change to yarn E, 3tr in each of the next 5 sps, change to yarn MC, 3tr in each of the next 3 sps between treble clusters, 2tr in the top of the beg-ch3. Turn. (37sts)
Row 11: Ch3, 3tr in each of the first 3 sps between treble clusters, change to yarn F, 3tr in each of the next 6 sps, change to yarn MC, 3tr in each of the next 3 sps between treble clusters, 1tr in the top of the beg-ch3. Turn. (38sts)
Row 12: Ch3, 1tr in the same st, 3tr in each of the first 2 sps between treble clusters, change to yarn G, 3tr in each of the next 7 sps, change to yarn MC, work 3tr in each of the next 2 sps between treble clusters, 2tr in the top of the beg-ch3. Turn. (37sts)
Row 13: Ch3, 3tr in each of the first 2 sps between treble clusters, change to yarn H, 3tr in each of the next 8 sps, change to yarn MC, 3tr in each of the next 2 sps between treble clusters, 1tr in the top of the beg-ch3. Turn. (38sts)
Row 14: Ch3, 1tr in the same st, 3tr in the first sp between treble clusters, change to yarn I, 3tr in each of the next 9 sps, change to yarn MC, 3tr in the next sp between treble clusters, 2tr in the top of the beg-ch3. Turn. (37sts)
Row 15: Ch3, 3tr in each of the first 2 sps between treble clusters, change to yarn J, 3tr in each of the next 8 sps, change to yarn MC, 3tr in each of the next 2 sps between treble clusters, 1tr in the top of the beg-ch3. Turn. (38sts)
Row 16: Ch3, 1tr in same st, 3tr in the first sp between treble clusters, change to yarn K, 3tr in each of the next 9 sps, change to yarn MC, 3tr in the next sp between treble clusters, 2tr in the top of the beg-ch3. Turn. (37sts)
Row 17: Ch3, 3tr in each of the first 2 sps between treble clusters, change to yarn L, 3tr in each of the next 8 sps, change to yarn MC, 3tr in each of the next 2 sps between treble clusters, 1tr in the top of the beg-ch3. Turn. (38sts)
Row 18: Ch3, 1tr in the same st, 3tr in each of the first 2 sps between treble clusters, change to yarn M, 3tr in each of the next 3 sps, change to yarn MC, 3tr in the next sp between treble clusters, change to yarn M, 3tr in each of the next 3 sps, change to yarn MC, 3tr in each of the last 2 sps, 2tr in the top of the beg-ch3. Turn. (37sts)
Row 19: Ch3, 3tr in each of the first 3 sps between treble clusters, change to yarn N, 3tr in each of the next 2 sps, change to yarn MC, 3tr in each of the next 2 sps between treble clusters, change to yarn N, 3tr in each of the next 2 sps, change to yarn MC, 3tr in each of the next 3 sps between treble clusters, 1tr in the top of the beg-ch3. Turn. (38sts)
Row 20: Ch3, 1tr in the same st, 3tr in each sp between treble clusters along to the end, 2tr in the top of the beg-ch3. Turn. (37sts)
Row 21: Ch3, 3tr in the first sp between treble clusters, continue along working 3tr in each sp between treble clusters until the end of the row, 1tr in the top of the beg-ch3. Turn. (38sts)
Row 22: Repeat Row 20.
Row 23: Repeat Row 21.
Row 24: Ch1 (does not count as a stitch), 1dc in each st until 1 st remains. Skip the last st (this ensures the stitch count at the top of the block is the same as the bottom of the block). Fasten off yarn. You may wish to leave a ‘long tail’ to sew blocks together later. (37sts)
A completed block should measure approximately 24cm (9.5in) by 24cm (9.5in).
Make all of the blocks numbered 1-25 as per colour chart.
Assembly
The blocks are reversible. You can choose which side you consider the right side and which is the wrong side.
Arrange the blocks with the right side facing upwards in the arrangement shown below.
Sew the blocks together. In the sample the mattress stitch was used, but you can use any method of joining that you prefer.
Blanket Border
The border is made up of 5 rounds of the Granny Stripe. The colours used for the border are as follows: Lincoln (Li), Blue Sky (Bl), Lavender (La), Bluebell (Bb), Cornish Blue (Co).
Notes on the Border
If you find that the border is too tight you may want to crochet more loosely, or opt for a bigger size hook.
The first round of the border works into the join of two blocks in places, and does so by skipping a number of stitches (particularly at the top and the bottom edges of the blanket). If you find that your tension means that this does not quite work for you and pulls slightly, you have the option of going up a hook size, or you can try the alternative method which is given at the end of the border instructions. You may also wish to use this alternative method if you find that you cannot work into the join, due to your chosen joining method.
Pattern for the Border
Border round 1 (RS): Start in the top right hand corner of the blanket (block 1) with right side facing. Using Lincoln yarn, pull up a loop in the first st.
Ch3 (counts as 1tr here and throughout), 2tr in the same st, [Skip 2sts, 3tr in the next] 11 times.
There will now be 3 sts remaining of block 1. Skip 3sts, 3tr in the join between the two blocks. Skip 3 sts and work 3tr in the next st (this will be on block 2). ***Please see alternative method for bridging this join at the end of the border instructions.***
Continue to work along the top of block 2 with [skip 2 sts, 3tr in next st] until 3 sts of block 2 remain. Skip 3 sts and work 3tr in the join. Skip 3 sts and work 3tr in the next st (this will be on block 3).
Continue to work along the top of block 3 with [skip 2 sts, 3tr in next st] until 3 sts of block 3 remain. Skip 3 sts and work 3tr in the join. Skip 3 sts and work 3tr in the next st (this will be on block 4).
Continue to work along the top of block 4 with [skip 2 sts, 3tr in next st] until 3 sts of block 4 remain. Skip 3 sts and work 3tr in the join. Skip 3 sts and work 3tr in the next st (this will be on block 5).
Continue to work along the top of block 5 with [skip 2 sts, 3tr in next st] until 3 sts of block 5 remain. Skip 2 sts and work [3tr, ch2, 3tr] in the last st to form a corner.
You will now be working down the left-hand side of the blanket with treble clusters. Work 3tr in the top of the last st of each of the even numbered rows (these are the rows with a group of 2 treble crochet stitches at the end).
When you reach the point where two blocks join, work 3tr in this join and then continue along the side of the next block with 3tr in the top of the last st of each of the even numbered rows.
Continue like this until you reach the corner. Work [3tr, ch2, 3tr] in the first st of row 1 (the dc row) to form a corner.
You will be working along the bottom edge with treble clusters in the dc row, in the same places that the first row of treble clusters were made as follows: [skip 2 sts, 3tr in the next (in the dc row)] until 3 sts of the first block remain.
Skip 3 sts, 3tr in the join between the two blocks. Skip 3 sts and work 3tr in the next st (this will be on the next block). ***Use alternative method to bridge the joins if used for the top edge.***
Work along the next block with [skip 2 sts, 3tr in next st (in dc row)] until 3 sts of the block remain. Skip 3 sts and work 3tr in the join. Skip 3 sts and work 3tr in the next st. Continue like this until you reach the corner. Work [3tr, ch2, 3tr] in the last st of row 1 (the dc row) to form a corner.
Now work up the final side of the blanket with 3tr in the top of the last st of each of the even numbered rows (these are the rows with a group of 2 treble crochet stitches at the end).
When you reach the point where two blocks join, work 3tr in this join and then continue along the side of the next block with 3tr in the top of the last st of each of the even numbered rows.
Continue like this until you reach the corner space where the round was started. Work [3tr, ch2] in this corner space, ss in the top of the beg-ch3 to close the round. Fasten off yarn.
Stitch count after first round of the border – along each side of the blanket there should be 61 treble clusters, and 2 chains in each corner space.
Border round 2: (WS): Turn the blanket over. Using Blue Sky yarn, pull up a loop in any ch2 corner sp, ch3, 2tr in the same sp, 3tr in each sp between treble clusters from the round below to the corner; [3tr, ch2, 3tr] in the corner. Work around the remaining 3 sides with 3tr in each sp and [3tr, ch2, 3tr] in each corner. When you reach the corner sp where you started the round, work [3tr, ch2] in the corner, ss in the top of beg-ch3. Fasten off.
Border round 3 (RS): Turn the blanket over. Using Lavender yarn. Repeat as for border round 2.
Border round 4 (WS): Turn the blanket over. Using Bluebell yarn. Repeat as for border round 2.
Border round 5 (RS): Turn the blanket over. Using Cornish Blue yarn. Repeat as for border round 2.
***Alternative method for bridging the join in border round 1***
The first round of the border works into the join of two blocks in places, and does so by skipping a number of stitches (particularly at the top and the bottom edges of the blanket). If you find that this does not quite work for you and pulls slightly, you have the option of going up a hook size, or you can try this alternative method. You may also wish to use this method if you find that you cannot work into the join, due to your chosen joining method.
Follow the instructions for round 1 of the border as above. When you have worked the groups of treble clusters until 3 sts of block 1 remain, then stop and work the following instead.
Work 1tr in the last stitch of block 1, tr2tog across the same st and in first st of block 2, 1tr in first st of block 2. Skip 2 sts, 3tr in the next then continue as for the border instructions above until you reach the next join, repeat this alternative method across blocks as you work across to the corner.
You may find that you do not need to do this variation down the sides, but you may want to do it again across the bottom edge.
After completing round 1 of the border, continue to work the next 4 rounds as described above, Note: when working round 2 of the border, having used this alternative method in the first round of the border, you count this group of stitches as a treble cluster.
Weave in your ends!
