Crochet Checked Scarf

I love a crochet project that looks more complicated than it really is, and this checked scarf is a perfect example.

The scarf is made from three long vertical strips of colourful blocks, joined together as you crochet using a simple slip-stitch join-as-you-go technique. There’s no need to sew the strips together at the end, making this a really satisfying project once you get into the rhythm of the construction.

I chose a mix of greens, blues and pops of yellow using Stylecraft Special DK, but the colour possibilities are endless. You could create bold, contrasting checks, use a coordinated tonal palette, or even make each strip a completely different colour combination.

Finished size: approximately 24cm × 200cm, including a 10cm fringe at each end.

If you enjoy experimenting with colour and learning new crochet techniques, this one is definitely worth trying.

Why you’ll love this pattern

• No sewing strips together – the strips are joined as you crochet.
• Great for colour play – use the suggested palette or create your own.
• Adjustable length – simply add more colour blocks.
• Video tutorial included – useful if the join-as-you-go technique is new to you.

Materials 

Crochet Hook:  4mm or size needed to achieve gauge 

Yarn: DK weight yarn in 8 colours, 50g/150m of each
The sample uses Stylecraft Special DK in:

Cornish Blue (yarn A)

Lime (yarn B)

Petrol (yarn C)

Sage (yarn D)

Dandelion (yarn E)

Apple (yarn F)

Pistachio (yarn G)

Denim (yarn H)

Finished Size

Approximately 24cm × 200cm, including a 10cm fringe at each end. Easily adjustable by adding more colour blocks.

Abbreviations/Crochet terminology

Pattern is written in UK terms. 

Stitch Guide/Conversion Guide

Gauge

1 colour block (13 sts/10 rows) = 8-8.5 cm x 8-8.5 cm approximately.

Gauge is not critical for this project. You want the work to have a nice drape, not too loose and floppy but also not too stiff. I have loose tension so I like to use a 4mm hook for Stylecraft Special DK.

Pattern Notes

This scarf is worked in vertical strips. Start by making the first vertical strip, then add two further strips, joining each one to the previous strip as you go.

Each vertical strip is made up of 24 colour blocks, with each block worked over 10 rows. The pattern uses Half Treble Crochet (htr in UK terms, hdc in US terms), worked in groups of two stitches to create htr clusters.

How the scarf is constructed

1. Make Vertical Strip 1.
2. Start Vertical Strip 2.
3. Join Strip 2 to Strip 1 at the end of each row using slip stitches.
4. Continue until the strip is complete.
5. Repeat for Strip 3.

The joining technique

Once you have made the first vertical strip, you will then add the subsequent strips using a slip-stitch join-as-you-go technique.

To use this technique, first make the first vertical strip on its own. For the second strip, pull up a loop in the bottom-right corner of the first block from the first strip (in the foundation chain).

Work the starting chain, and then work htr clusters as per pattern. When you reach the end of the first row you will slip stitch into the corresponding first row on the first vertical strip, then chain 1, then slip stitch up into the second row of the first vertical strip. Turn, then continue with the htr clusters in row 2 for the second vertical strip.

At the end of row 3, join in the same way as before: slip stitch into row 3, ch1, then slip stitch into row 4. Turn and then continue with the pattern. Continue in the same way, attaching the new vertical strip to the previous vertical strip.

If you need help with this, there is a video tutorial of this pattern further down the page.

Colour Changes

Each block of colour is worked in 10 rows. To change colour, work the last stitch of the old colour at the end of row 10 until the final yarn over. Yarn over with the new colour and pull through to complete the stitch. Cut the old colour, leaving a tail for weaving in. Secure the ends as you prefer, then weave them in.

Written Pattern

Vertical Strip 1

ROW 1: Using yarn A (Cornish Blue), chain 15, 2htr in the 3rd ch from the hook, *skip 1 ch, 2htr in next ch*, repeat from *to* across row until there are 2 chains remaining, skip 1 ch, work 1htr in the last. Turn.

NOTE: for row 2 and subsequent rows you will be working in the spaces between the htr clusters from the row below.

ROW 2: Ch2, 2htr in first space (the first space is between the single htr worked at the end of row 1 and the 2htr), 2htr in each space until the last space (last space is in between the 2htr and turning chain from the row below), insert 1htr in this last space, turn. [stitch count: you should have a single htr at each end and 6 htr clusters in between]

ROW 3: Ch2, 2htr in 1st space, 2htr in each space until last space, 1htr in last space, turn. [stitch count: you should have a single htr at each end and 6 htr clusters in between]

ROWS 4-10: repeat row 3, change to yarn B (Lime) at the end of row 10 introducing the new colour on the last yarn over. Cut off yarn A.

Continue to work blocks of 10 rows in colour order according to the chart below until you have a total of 24 colour blocks in the first vertical strip.

Vertical Strip 2

ROW 1: RS facing. Attach yarn E (Dandelion) to the end of the foundation chain of the 1st vertical strip with a slip stitch. Ch15, 2htr in 3rd ch from the hook, *skip 1 ch, 2htr in next ch*, repeat from *to* across row until there are 2 chains remaining, skip 1 ch, 1htr in last chain, ss into row 1 of the 1st vertical strip (around the post of the end stitch), ch1, ss into row 2 of the 1st vertical strip (around the post of the end stitch). Turn.

*NOTE: for row 2 and subsequent rows you will be working in the spaces between the htr clusters from the row below.

**NOTE: for even numbered rows you will not need to start with a chain 2 as the [ss, ch1, ss] replaces this, and has got you to the required height.

ROW 2: 2htr in the space between the single htr and the first group of 2htr from the row below, 2htr in each space until the last space (last space is in between the 2htr and turning chain from the row below), insert 1htr in this last space. Turn.

ROW 3: Ch2, 2htr in 1st space, 2htr in each space until last space, 1htr in last space, ss into row 3 of the 1st vertical strip (around the post of the end stitch), ch1, ss into row 4 of the 1st vertical strip (around the post of the end stitch). Turn.

ROWS 4-10: alternate Row 2 and Row 3. Change to yarn H (Denim) at the end of Row 10, introducing the new colour on the last yarn over. Fasten off yarn E.

Continue to work blocks of 10 rows in the colour sequence shown in the colour chart below until you have a total of 24 colour blocks in the second vertical strip.

NOTE: when working the final colour block of vertical strip 2, at the end of row 9 slip stitch into corresponding row 9 of the first vertical strip, chain 1 as usual and then work the next slip stitch into the final row in the top of the stitch instead of around the post of last stitch. This gives a nice straight edge.

Subsequent Vertical Strips

Continue to add the third vertical strip using the same join-as-you-go method described for Vertical Strip 2, joining it to the previous strip as you work. Each strip should contain 24 colour blocks.

Colour Chart

Adding Tassels/Fringe

For each of the six colours used for the end colour blocks, cut 20 strands of yarn, each 28cm long. You will use 5 strands to make each tassel, giving you 4 tassels per colour. Holding 5 strands together, fold them in half to form a loop. Insert your crochet hook from the wrong side through the edge of the first row of the scarf. Place the fold of the strands over the hook and draw the loop through. Thread the ends of the strands through the loop and pull to tighten. Repeat to attach the tassels evenly, with 4 tassels matching each corresponding colour block. Trim the tassels to your desired length (I trimmed mine to approximately 10cm). Weave in any remaining loose ends with a yarn needle.

For more details on how to make tassels, please see my detailed tutorial here.

Video Tutorial